Nepal
Red Cross Visit
Two weeks ago I had a meeting with Nepal Red
Cross in Kathmandu. It was not very far from our office, so I cycled there. The
complex is enormous, with one main building in the front and quite a few
additional buildings in the back plus a massive Red Cross car fleet. I was
brought to an office on the 3rd floor and I learnt that Nepal Red
Cross is the District Support Lead Agency for 20 districts in Nepal.
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Map from Nepal Red Cross with all locations they are working at |
In total
Nepal has 75, so that is a huge number. However only one is the 14 most
affected areas from the earthquake, which is Rasuwa. A second person joined 20
minutes later and it felt like I was back in IBM doing a Sales call I have to
say ;) It seems like I haven’t forgotten the skills I gained, so in the end
after listening carefully, emphasizing and asking the right questions at the
appropriate time, I got the agreement I wanted. Good meeting after all :)
The
earth was shacking on Friday, 5th February
I actually just came home around 10pm and was
on the 2nd floor in my room, when I heard some ‘loud beeping’ going
off in the house. I first thought “oh no, the power backup is empty and now we
have no Internet”! But it took only another second when I realized that this
was the Earthquake Alarm in our house, which had gone off, and the earth
started to move. The first thought I had “I have to stand underneath the door
frame”, so that’s what I did. It took only a few seconds, and then it stopped.
I was not sure if I was allowed to move, but I did go quickly to my bed, grabbed
my mobile and went back under the doorframe and stood there for another minute.
All was quiet and I decided to go downstairs and outside of the house, where I
met with other VSO volunteers and neighbours. It was an awkward feeling,
however I was only asking myself how frightened the Nepali people and
foreigners must have felt who were actually here during the major April earthquake
last year. A lot of people spend a few hours outside their houses until they
felt comfortable to go back in.
Visiting
Phu’s House
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Making 'Kapsi' |
Saturday, two weeks ago I made my way across the city with my
bicycle to meet Phu. We met in Chabahil at the Stupa and from there I cycled
another 2km, Phu took the bus. At the cross road we met again and walked over
to Phu’s House. Phu became a friend of mine when I was in Nepal in 2012. I met
him during my first trek in the Annapurna Region. His house is beautiful in a
nice and quiet area a little bit outside of the hassle and bustle of Kathmandu.
His entire family was so welcoming. I learnt, that Sherpa’s like the Vietnamese
celebrate the New Year at the same time. This year it falls Beginning of
February. However, Hindu New Year will be celebrated in April in Nepal.
Therefore the family prepared already a lot of food. 15kg of dough had been
prepared and rolled out to make a food called ‘Kapsi’. So I joined the family
in the kitchen and helped with making ‘Kapsi’s’.
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Frying Kapsi's |
We had Dhal Bhat for lunch and
before the sun went down I made my way back to the South of the city. I took a
new route with my bicycle and at times I had no idea where I was ;) However,
the back roads I took where much nicer to cycle on then the main roads. It
didn’t take too long when I was in a familiar area again and I was home before
sun set.
UN
OCHA Contingency Planning
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UN Kathmandu |
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OCHA prensentation |
The Secretariat was invited to take part in
a UN OCHA Contingency Planning Workshop, so I cycled to the UN House in
Kathmandu. It felt funny to be back in the UN compound after my internship in
Bangkok. The security guards were smiling at me as I arrived with my bicycle,
me a Westerner. I did find that amusing, they only wanted to see my VSO ID and
then they did let me pass and I parked my bicycle in the UN compound. The
meeting was about a study from the University of Durham, which had mad a prediction
about a massive follow on earthquake in Nepal, which could possibly happen in
the future. It was an
interesting prediction, however slightly frightened as
well. UN OCHA from Bangkok then guided the workshop and we were asked to think
about the emergency response structure especially in Nepal, where each agency
would fit in alongside with the government and all the other actors. It was
interesting!
However, I as a Sustainable Development Practitioner was asking
myself, if we should not instead put all our resources and efforts into making
the local communities more resilient, invest in earthquake proven housing
upgrades instead of planning how the construct of response should look like
after another earthquake. Maybe this does come from deep insight, as I deeply
believe in Sustainable Development and working with the local communities to
enable them to be better prepared.
A week of sickness
Since almost one week my stomach was
causing problems unfortunately. Not really sure at all where it came from, but
on Tuesday I was so weak, that I had to stay home from work. Anybody, who knows
me well, can imagine how miserable I must have felt. The toilet was my best
friend and at times I felt like I would have to wear nappies. It improved
slightly on Wednesday and I went back to work. Unfortunately on Thursday I was
back to Diarrhea and stomach craps. Slight improvement on Friday after eating
banana’s all day. I felt very weak, so I decided to rest as much as I can. It
does proof itself a little bit challenging while sharing with 4 other people.
One evening they ordered delicious Pizza in and watched a movie, so you could
hear every single word on the top floor, where I was staying and the delicious
smell in the house is not helping, when you are not able to eat one bite. No
fun to be honest! I have to be fit by Tuesday, as we have planned our first
field visits and I am so excited!
Magic
tablets from the NIC (Nepal International Clinic)
My stomach didn’t turn out to be better
over last weekend, so I decided to go to the NIC, where VSO is having an
arrangement with for the health of all VSO volunteers. I met the doctor and
described my symptoms and what had happened over the last 7 days. She took a
blood sample and said it sounds very much like if I would have caught some parasites.
She gave me 4 ‘magic’ tablets and I waited for my blood sample. All results
were good and she said I was not dehydrated and I will feel much better after I
would take these 4 tables before I go to bed. She also warned me that I could
have a metallic taste afterwards for 24hours. I followed the advise of the
doctor and on Tuesday lunchtime I was able to have my first real meal again! I
was so happy and I finally gained some energy again :) All good!
First
Field visits are planned
I have planned the first field visit and we
are off to Gorkha District on Tuesday for 2 nights and then we stop in Dhading
for one night. It is our first initial visit since the Secretariat is
established and I am curious to find out how the situation is in the districts,
what does work well and what they might need help and support with. One
Information Manager, which we hired, has started this week, so our team is
growing :)
Apartment
Hunting
I really enjoy looking at apartments
anywhere on this globe, however I have to say this time it turned into a little
‘nightmare’ with quite a lot of frustrations. Nevertheless, I have decided to
start from scratch and let’s see how this goes ;)
Field
visit to Gorkha
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Gorkha town with a cow in the middle of the road ;) |
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District Goverment Office |
We started off on Tuesday morning from the
VSO Office with a team of 4 from our Secretariat. A Minibus was hired including
a driver and he brought us safe down to Gorkha, which was a good 4.5-hour
journey West of Kathmandu. The District Support Lead Agency ‘CARE Nepal’ was so
kind to pick us up at our guesthouse and we made our way to meet the Chief
District Officer (CDO) of Gorkha. It was a quick courtesy visit, but very
important that the CDO made time to see us.
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Madhav - CARE Nepal in Gorkha |
Afterwards we visited the CARE
Nepal office in Gorkha and had a good meeting with Madhav. He showed us his
district map, explained the VDC (Village Development Committee’s) structure and
showed us the location of ‘Barpack’ - the epicentre of the April 2015
earthquake.
It was in a very remote area and he invited us to go with him the
next day to see it. I got very excited, but also a bit frightened, as I did not
really know what to expect.
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Madhav drawing the structure of Gorkha District |
We also met with some of the INGO’s and NGO’s to
discuss good practices, what works well, however also what challenges they are
facing and where we might be able to support. Madhav drew a structure from all actors in Gorkha district, which was really helpful for us. Thank you!
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The structure is done! |
Before it got dark we had a quick stroll
around town to see where we could have dinner. We found one cute little
restaurant a little bit further up the hill and decided that we would like to
go there as a team this evening. The owners were very nice and we had lovely
food. So the next day Shanti and I would go with CARE Nepal in their vehicle to
the epicentre and Jessica would go back to Kathmandu.
Visit
to the epicentre “Barpak” of the Nepali 2015 Earthquake (25th April)
I had mixed feeling when I woke up that morning - Excitement, about
getting the opportunity to visit the epicenter. However, I also wasn’t sure
what to expect really and how bad the impressions would be and what we would
see. The 5-hour road trip from Gorkha was horrendous to say the least. It
reminded me of my bus ride almost 4 years ago when I started my trek in
Langtang. The roads were only paved for the first 30-45 min, and then we drove
on sandy, dusty roads, a lot filled with gravel and deep holes everywhere.
Shanti and I jumped up and down in the back of the Jeep, sometimes my head
would touch the roof or my elbow would touch the door. I first tried the seat
belt, but soon decided that this was no use at all, it strangled me more than
it helped. It felt like all our organs were reorganized in our body and the
roads got worse after we had stopped for an early lunch.
We had also passed a
hydropower construction site where they are about to complete a 4km tunnel system.
This was impressive, taking into consideration the geographical area and accessibly.
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Tunnel for the Hydropower Construction |
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Lunch break in the village |
In the small village, where we had lunch we saw some tents from Oxfam and there was also a birthing center set up by the International Medical Corps after the earthquake. All was still in use and the birthing center and women friendly place were very clean.
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Women's friendly space |
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Women's friendly space - inside |
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Local birthing center |
We
crossed rivers with no bridges and drove up for another 1.5 hours, steep dirt
roads with even more and deeper holes in them. Sometimes I thought I should get
out of the car and just go on a trek. It would be more enjoyable to walk up,
but we didn’t have enough time for that.
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Landscape we drove through |
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River Crossing without any bridge! |
We finally reached the first few settlements, mostly temporarily shelters as houses were all destroyed and people lived mostly in tents.
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Reaching the first temporary shelters |
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People are still living in tents after 10 months! |
Then we reached the village and epicenter
‘Barpak’. You could see a lot of blue iron sheets everywhere, which were used
for temporary housing and must have been distributed after the earthquake.
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Village 'Barpack' - Epiccentre of the April 2015 Earthquake |
Shanti and I got out of the Jeep and went on a stroll around the village. Some
houses were still intact, but mostly with big cracks or some were unsafe to
live in. Then we got closer to the area where it must have hit hardest. We
walked through lanes with lots of rubble on either sides, fallen in houses,
areas where only parts of houses were left and abandoned. We met an older woman
when we stopped at a house, which had been fallen in and the wooden staircase
was still visible.
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Fallen in house with the wooden staircase still visible on the right side |
She told Shanti, that her mother and son were still buried
underneath the rubble and if we would know of any diggers, which would come up
here, so they could get their bodies out. I had tried to not expect anything
from this visit to the epicenter. However, if a woman stands in front of you
and you hear these heartbreaking stories you know how fortunate you are in life. The only thing I could think of was that no digger would ever come up
here in any foreseeable future and I wondered how this woman would survive
every day looking onto her house, which was completely destroyed, knowing
that two of her loved one’s are buried underneath.
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Rubble everywhere...! |
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Only one wall standing ...! |
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A local man digging a massive hole by hand for his new house! |
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Rubble everywhere from collapsed houses! |
We walked a little further up in the town and everywhere you could
hear hammering and building works going on. Spring had arrived and people were
clearly eager to start rebuilding their houses or to create a completely new
one from scratch. The government still hasn’t released any grant to the
earthquake-affected households, as evaluations are still ongoing. This is
almost 10 months now after the earthquake had hit. I did understand the local
people. They used anything they could find from their old houses or houses in
the neighbourhood which were destroyed as they didn’t have any new building
materials.
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Barpack Town |
Even getting up local materials to this remote area would be a
challenge. The big concern I have is, that people built back their
houses, but they are not earthquake proven. I don’t judge the people as they
might not know how to build back safer and they might not have the resources and materials to
do so. They clearly want to provide a proper roof for their families before the
monsoon season will start in June!
Will these households be eligible to receive
the government grant later on when it will be releases? Nobody knows yet and I
wonder how this situation can be dealt with, so local people in remote areas
with restricted resources don’t have to take the burden.
It was an unforgettable experience and I am more than grateful that
I got the opportunity to visit these local communities in the epicentre.
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Road on the way back |
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A lot of dirt roads with lots of sand and stones in the way
Field visit to Dhading
Thursday morning we made our way towards another district called
‘Dhading’. This time it was only a 2.5-hour drive until we reached the district
office. We met up with Babu Ram from ACTED, the District Support Lead Agency to
see the Chief District Officer (CDO). The government offices are in a nice part
of town and all next to each other. We had a good conversation with the CDO and
understood that he is only in the job since 2 months. He was working as a
Minister of Labour beforehand. He was a very down to earth man and I did like
him. He was interested where I was from and when he heard that I was German, he
shared with us that his daughter studies medicine in Germany. After that short
official visit, we had lunch and were able to meet with the Local Development
Officer (LDO) shortly after that. He was a very busy man; therefore we only had
a few minutes to meet with him. However, he did invite us back to see him again
for a longer meeting another time as he seemed to be interested to work with
us. The Government Officials in Dhading
seem to be very welcoming.
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ACTED Office Dhading |
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Dhading District Map |
We went to the ACTED Office in Dhading, where we had
a good, constructive meeting with the different agencies. It seems like Dhading
is facing a few challenges and might need some support from our Secretariat.
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Babu Ram drawing the structure of actors in Dhading |
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Babu Ram with the complete structure in Dhading District |
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Meeting with INGO's in Dhading |
In
the evening we met up with the 4 VSO volunteers based in Dhading. They invited
us over into their house and it was lovely to catch up with them and to go for
some Dhal Bhat (rice and lentils) for dinner in our hotel.
ACTED had suggested to visit two different IDP camps on Friday morning, close to Dhading town up the hill and we also planned to visit the two VSO projects in education and health.
IDP Camps
(Internally Displaced People) in Dhading
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IDP camp Damgade in Dhading |
Another day, where I decided not to expect anything! I just wanted
to see what impressions I can and will take in from our field visit to two
local IDP camps, one in Damgade and another one in Dansarpakha. Both were Tamang
communities, which came from the VDC’s of Lapa, Ri and Jharlang, which are all
mountainous areas and all were highly affected by the earthquake. It became
clear that a lot of woman and children were in the camps when we visited. We
understood after chatting to some of the people, that some younger men were
working abroad, others found a few hours of work. We learnt that the IOM
(International Organisation of Migration) had arranged that men and women could
work every other week at some building sites in Dhading town to earn a living.
Other households had their own income by making baskets out of local materials.
Households told us that most of the older generations stayed in the remote
areas, where the earthquake had hit hardest, but they decided to move closer to
Dhading town.
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Nepali Tamang family in the Damgade IDP camp |
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Large community hall in the camp - clean and nice place! |
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Inside one of the tents |
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IDP Camp from above |
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Cooking lunch in the IDP camp |
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Sponsored Solar lamps from UNHCR |
In one camp there were exceptionally lots of children under 5.
Toilets were very rare, 400 IDP’s had to share 6-8 toilets and they were not in
a good state at all. In addition, there were no washing facilities at all and
people told us they are going to the nearest river to have a bath. I was
wondering and questioning at the same time why there were not any washing
facilities with a little bit of privacy for women especially so a standard of
hygiene could be kept.
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Toilets in the camp - not separated by men & women |
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Water purification tank, where the water is pumped up from the river |
I understood that the government had rented the land
where the bigger IDP camp was on it and there were discussions going on, if the
IDP’s could stay or if they could/should move back in there VDC (Village
Development Committee’s). Some IDP’s
wanted to stay closer to Dhading and were waiting if they could get some land
from the government. Others told us that the mountainous area where they were
from originally is still too dangerous to go back to as landslides are still
going down and some of their houses are buried by landslides and therefore they
would have to live in tents up there as well. I was wondering if some younger
families and households might see this as a chance to settle somewhere closer
to the city of Dhading to maybe have an easier way of life and a better
opportunity to earn a living. The thought of Gender Based Violence also crossed
my mind and I was wondering if these IDP camps are safe especially for women
and young girls. We got no answer on this during our visit. I understood that
some statistics which were taken after the earthquake had happened are not
accurate as apparently some households had registered twice or had split in two
households, after the earthquake happened, as the older generation stayed in
the village and the younger generation moved closer to the city as IDP’s.
Therefore it is hard to get an accurate picture, which household/family is
entitled to a relief grant from the government to rebuild their home.
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IDP camp Dansarpakha - Dhading |
After the mixed impressions from the two IDP camp visits we drove to
the District Hospital in Dhading to meet up with Georgina, a VSO volunteer who
was so kind to show us around in the hospital.
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District Hospital in Dhading |
I learnt that no operations are taking place in this hospital and
they have in total 6 doctors and 3 nurses employed, the rest are volunteers.
The hospital was very small and when we entered into the main part, I felt that
the floor was very dirty. However, it was spacious, but with no privacy and the
male and female wards were just separated by a wall with no doors.
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Male Hospital Ward |
We were also
very fortunate to see the birthing center, which contained 4 beds, a separate
room with an incubator and an actual room where the women can give birth. There
were 3 newborn babies there at the time and the women can stay there for 24
hours until they get released.
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Birthing Center Dhading |
There is also a post-natal tent in the backyard,
where women can stay for up to 1 month with their babies if they chose so.
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Post-natal tent |
From there we made our way to ‘Aasaman’, the local Education partner
organisation, where two VSO volunteers are working. We met up with Eunice and
Lysbet and it was lovely to see their working environment.
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Aasaman Dhading |