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WACC & ArcAsia colleagues |
I have the feeling that I get hardly time to settle in HCMC. Just
about discovering a few coffee places near my house, a possible route to go
running and a Yoga studio in town, when we already went on the next field trip
back to the Mekong Delta to Soc Trang. I really liked to get to know more rural
places in Vietnam. Soc Trang has a nice size, around 150.000 people and life
seems to be pretty relaxed compared to Saigon at least ;)
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Local Bridge in Soc Trang |
It was lovely to meet
the architects from ArcAsia, Yves, the landscape architect from Belgium and Eva
from GIZ.
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Eva, Kerstin, Loan, Yves and ArcAsia colleague |
We had meetings with the department of construction and also with the
people’s committee. It was a bit unfortunate that hardly anybody took the time
or effort to translate for me during the meetings what was going on. I had been
so excited about the flooding and drainage project to be honest, but after a
few days I realized that this was a very ‘political’ engagement, especially how
the different project sites were chosen. I had in mind that this will help the
local population, neighbourhood areas that might have been severely affected by
flooding in the past. However, it turned out that 3 out of 5 sites were
actually in front of the department of construction, mostly the pavement areas.
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Tam & Kerstin |
Coming back to Saigon on a Friday and leaving straight away on Sunday again for
the other 4 coastal cities Tuy Hoa, Nha Trang, Quy Nhon and Quang Ngai. I was
excited to visit new places and to spend time with the architecture team. The
girls Loan, Xuan and Tu were so entertaining. We flew into Tuy Hoa, where we
stayed in a beautiful hotel and the first thing Ha and myself did was going for
a discovery walk to the beach before we all had dinner.
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Tuy Hoa beach at sunset |
The beach turned out to
be only a 15min walk away and it was gorgeous. Really unspoiled, no tourists,
only locals around. I decided to go for a run in the morning! Finally I was
able to run again :) I woke up with a gorgeous sunrise at 5.30am and went for a
run at 6am! Lots of locals were already awake, some selling breakfast, coffees
and baguette on the pavements; others were swimming in the sea. I ran along the
beach and enjoyed every moment. I loved this town. No traffic, almost no cars,
just a few motorbikes and some bicycles. So peaceful :) Back in the hotel I
changed into my bikini and walked back up to the beach to go for a well
deserved swim before breakfast! After our official meeting with the department
of construction we went to visit the site. This was an interesting project. The
area was in a residential neighbourhood and the plan was to enhance the wide
green strip between the two streets.
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Project site Tuy Hoa |
We were able to speak to a few neighbours and
the people’s committee had agreed to a neighbourhood meeting in the evening. We
had to change location in the last minute as there was a power cut in the venue
and therefore we went to a nearby coffee place instead where the meeting was
held spontaneously.
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Neighbourhood Meeting - Tuy Hoa |
We presented the project and landscaping ideas to the
neighbourhood committee and we got 15 questionnaires filled in. However the
neighbours had more concerns than just the landscaping project. They were complaining
about the unpaved road and the dirt and dust caused by it. I really loved this
little town. Rice fields in the middle of the city, some hills and the ocean.
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Rice fields in the city and a small hill |
The
next day we recorded the data from the questionnaires and were able to go for a
quick visit up to the Nhan Tower.
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Nhan Tower |
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What a beautiful view onto the city! |
Then we
all drove in a small minibus to Nha Trang. I wasn’t looking forward to this, as
this city was so touristy. I had only been there once but promised myself not
to come back! It was a long tedious bus trip with one beautiful stop in-between
at the most easterly point in Vietnam, Southeast of Tuy Hòa in Phú Yên Province.
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Most easterly point in Vietnam |
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That’s the first time I saw a lighthouse in Vietnam!!! |
Nha Trang was busy with
tourist, especially from Russia. There were even menus in Russian and shop
front had signs written in Russian! Not the most relaxing place on earth ;) The
site in Nha Trang nevertheless was interesting! A busy street in a local
neighbourhood packed with different businesses, shops and small little pavement
stalls springing up every morning and evening to sell local food. We did a
first site visit after our official meeting with the government and we were
also able to interview some local businesses.
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Official meeting with the Department of construction |
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Interview with the locals |
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Interview with a local guitar shop |
Another community meeting in the
evening, this time with not many participants, but the ones who did show up
were interested.
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Community meeting Nha Trang |
Next stop was Quy Nhon. We stayed in a very strange hotel from
the late 70th, but it was directly across the beach!
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View from outside of our hotel in Quy Nhon! |
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Quy Nhon beach |
So back to my morning run and swim before work. Quy Nhon was a city with a lot of green areas, parks and in general very well kept! I think this city will develop in another famous tourist spot in the future. The flooding and drainage project was questionable in my eyes as there was no flooding occurring and the area where the project should be implemented was just newly developed in a really nice wide green park strip. Anyhow, I did learn a lot from Yves, the landscape architect. I finally was able to distinguish between palm trees and coconut trees by the trunk and I learned that trees can have vertical or horizontal roots. Horizontal roots can or most likely will destroy the pavement over time when used in this area. Thanks Yves for this insight!
Interviewing local people was fun in Quy Nhon. We talked to a local fisherman who was repairing his net, an elderly man who comes to the park every day for a walk and an owner of a local coffee place.
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Interview with the local fisherman |
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Interview with a local visiting the park every day |
We had the chance on the last day to visit the
International Center for Interdisciplinary Science and Education and the ‘Quy Hoa
Leprosy’ town. The architects were all excited visiting the center, as a famous
architect had designed it.
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International Center for Interdisciplinary Science and Education |
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Peaceful spot! |
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Having a good time with Loan!
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Quy Hoa Leper Colony
We visited the ‘leprosy town, where a hospital was built
in the past for treatment of leprosy.
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Old sign posts |
It was a very awkward feeling walking
through this picturesque small little town, the streets lined with coconut trees
on both sides of the road, cute colourful doors, window frames and house walls.
Small little sandy trails were leading to a beautiful beach and people were
still calling this place their home. It was striking that the locals had left
all the old signs on buildings, streets and abundant sheds. I even found one
sign in German saying ‘Wurzburgstrasse’!
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Wurzburgstrasse! |
The hospital is still in operation,
not only for leprosy treatment but also for HIV/AIDS and other diseases. This
small little town had left an impression on me for sure!
Danang
We had only spent one night in Quang Nhai, had one meeting in the
morning and left in a rush at lunch time to reach Danang. I had decided to stay
for a few days in my old hometown to see old friends and to have a break. Coming into Danang with the WACC colleagues
was strange. I was actually a bit shocked, seeing all these new high-rise
hotels along the beautiful beach. At least 10 new hotels with 15-30 floors each
sprung up, lots of new small hotels everywhere, new food places, coffee places
and dozens of people, mostly Asian tourist flocking along the beach. Well it
was 5pm, so no surprise, that’s the main rush hour for swimming in the late
afternoon as the sun is setting soon. As we had arrived one day earlier as
planned in Danang, I needed to find a place to sleep for the night. My hotel
was fully booked, but I found a nice room close to the beach on the 5th
floor in the Mango hotel.
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Gorgeous view from my hotel! |
So all was good and I could hardly believe I was back
in Danang. A feeling of joy, excitement but also sadness came up. How much has
it really changed? What happened to the sleepy beachfront? Well, it is July and
yes that’s the major tourist season. But I was still shocked how much it had
changed in just 2 years. Will it develop into a 2nd Nha Trang?
Hopefully not :( Anyway, my first highlight was to see Trang! I haven’t given
her a hug for over 2 years and I was about to walk to her house from my hotel.
I would not only meet my really good Vietnamese friend, but also her newly
wedded husband and her daughter Mya.
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Mya & Trang & her husband |
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Mya & Kerstin |
We did spend a lovely evening together,
chatting about what had happened in the last 2 years and had delicious food at
Loc Chau - ‘cheesy oysters’! So tasty :) Life was good.
During the last few days I did catch up with some Vietnamese
students of mine, some teachers from ELI and some Vietnamese and Western
friends. It felt strange to be back, seeing that some things haven’t changed at
all, lots of memories came back and I clearly knew and felt again why I had
decided to not come back to live here. I was proud of myself that I had spent
the last 2 years investing in my education and career change. Yes, soon I will
be ready to work as Sustainable Development Practitioner. Keep your fingers
crossed!
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Beautiful and tasty Vietnamese 'My Quang' homemade by Tin |
I did spend my last day driving up Son Tra Peninsula in the morning. I
loved that motorbike ride along the coast, winding roads, passing by the
beautiful and impressive Lady Buddha statue and meeting some wild monkeys on
the road. I stopped for lunch at my favourite place ‘Tam’s Pub’ and had a
delicious pineapple pancake. As my
flight only left in the evening I spontaneously decided to drive up Hai Van
Pass. I did what I love doing – riding on a motorbike through amazing nature,
landscapes and stunning views!
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View from Hai Van Pass |
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I just love riding a motorbike up Hai Van Pass! |
District 7 - Saigon
Back in Saigon I’m trying to discover some new neighbourhoods and forcing
myself to drive on my motorbike through unknown and jam-packed streets,
discovering new neighbourhoods but mostly focusing on traffic. It is a
different cup of tea here in Saigon, driving through a 1 km long tunnel, coming
out the other end not knowing where to go next ;) The lanes in the tunnel are
separated for cars and motorbikes and that is indeed needed. There was
surprisingly no traffic jam in the tunnel, thank god, and people drove a steady
and relaxed pace. Not such a bad experience and it seems like I’m warming to
the idea driving through this tunnel a bit more often. It does close so between
10pm and 5am, so I was aiming to be back then before 10pm after meeting Loan
for coffee and Ursula afterwards for some Vietnamese dinner. I crossed
different bridges, drove through congested roads and finally ended up in
District 7. Wow, that felt like you just entered a different country all of a
sudden. This area looked like Singapore, seriously. I’m not sure what I wanted
to feel or what I did feel. It did look amazingly beautiful, the new modern
buildings, clean roads, some green strips and a beautiful lake with shopping
mall and restaurants around it. Puuhh, welcome to posh Saigon!!!
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Lake - District 7 |
I parked my
motorbike and decided to have a stroll around the lake until Loan showed up.
Beautiful walk, very peaceful, however nowhere near was any bench to be seen. Unfortunately, no place where you could sit
down and look at this lovely lake. I decided to check out prices of two coffee
places at the corner and I almost fell over – 80.000VND (4US$) for a coffee!
Ok, that was a no go for an unpaid intern. Loan arrived and we both decided
that we would try to find a cosy Vietnamese coffee place instead. After walking
around for a while without any success we decided to get some drinks from a
street vendor. I got a tasty café sua da (Vietnamese Iced coffee with milk) for
take-away for just 10.000VND (50cents)! That was much better :)
Wake Up Saigon
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Wake Up Saigon with Ha, Trung, Nguyet, Hiep |
I have found two different meditation groups in Saigon and I’m very
grateful for this. It helps me to stay calm and to feel happy. The people in
both groups are so welcoming and it is really nourishing to spend time with
them all. One group meets every Sunday afternoon for 1.5 hours. We do some
silent sitting in a beautiful pagoda and then sing some Plum Village songs. Sometimes
we have a vegetarian dinner together in a beautiful nice café. The other group
meets more sporadic and we had a chance yesterday to do some rubbish clean up
in a park at ‘Pham Ngu Lao', in the middle of Saigon.
Birthday celebration
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Lovely crowd! |
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Such a lovely cake! |
Thanks for all your kind birthday wishes from all over the world! I
feel so touched and very grateful :) Two years ago on my birthday I was sitting
at the Summit Pub in Howth in Ireland with close friends, when I checked my
emails and got the confirmation for my Master program. Last year in Malawi
'Joy', the neighbour’s daughter was born on my birthday and I was able to hold
her, when she was only a few hours old. Today it seems like I might the
opportunity for an internship, which I am more than passionate about with an
organisation I would love to work for and a location, which is very close to my
heart! I feel so grateful & happy and can hardly believe that this is all
happening to me and it is my birthday again ;) I did spend a beautiful day here
in Saigon with an interview close to the opera house, a lovely aroma massage followed by a visit in the Zoo, a nice
coffee and tiramisu in my favourite coffee place before I met up with some
friends in my favourite Vegetarian ‘San May Café’ for a tasty dinner.
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Opera House Saigon |
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Saigon Zoo |
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La Rotondo Cafe |
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Cafe Sua Da & Tiramisu! |
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My birthday wish |
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San May Cafe - District 1/Saigon |
It felt
really nice that colleagues from WACC, ArcAsia and from the two different
meditation groups shared this time with me. We had so much fun & a
beautiful time. Thanks everybody for coming and for my birthday presents! Binh
from the meditation group asked me what I usually do on my birthday. This
question made me realize that I actually had been in 5 different countries for
the last 5 years on my birthday! 2010 – Singapore, 2011 – France, 2012 - Nepal,
2013 - Ireland, 2014 - Malawi and 2015 – Vietnam. Let’s see what 2016 will
bring ;)
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Thanks you WACC & ArcAsia colleagues! Look at the gorgeous pillow I got :) |
I'm glad I came back to Vietnam. The internship is not what I had
hoped for, but it is a good experience to live in a city like Saigon with 12Mio
people, driving a motorbike and trying to find your way around!!! However, I
for sure prefer a more rural area ;)! 12 Mio is a little bit much for my taste.
Anyway, the Water- and Climate Institute is a bit small and most of the work has
to be done in Vietnamese.
Therefore I have started to look for another
internship and busy applying for different positions. Please keep your fingers
crossed for me that I find the right organisation and place to go to!